Carpets can be a luxury item in your home or business premises, which can be expensive. We always promote a regular schedule to use your hoover in your home or business.
As they say, if you look after something, it will look after you.
We are all busy with our lifestyles and sometimes have that man yana approach. Please don’t. Make the effort.
I bet you don’t use your crevice tool for the edges.
The crevice tool was to get into all those nooks and crannies. Have you ever seen dark edges around the edges? This is dust under the carpet. This can become visible over time through a lack of hoovering. We know them as draft marks.
Removing draught marks can be difficult, even for the most experienced and costly.
Have runners in the most trafficked areas in your home. This will protect the high-traffic areas it experiences.
In the event you have an accident, don’t use the off-the-shelf stain products. They do not work. All they do is spread the issue.
Depending on what type of fibre you have depends on the method that will be used.
I would identify this at the inspection audit stage.
What methods are available?
The phrase steam extraction is, in fact, an incorrect terminology for this method. What we use is steam, or HWE, as the industry experts refer to it. This process injects the hot water within the fibres which at the same time vacuums up the dislodged dirt. Most of the industry also advises that customers have their carpets cleaned in this manner. Hot water extraction gives the best and deepest cleanliness possible. Natural fibres such as wool can shrink if the water is too hot, so when inspected and wool is the fibre, the heat is reduced. If your carpet is velvet, Wilton, or Sisal then this method is not for you.
Our machine is a truck mount with a backup being portable, which is very useful for going into flats or parking is an issue. We normally carry around 100feet of vacuum and inline hose. The normal length used is 60 feet. When we use our machine, we normally leave this in the van, which reduces any noise pollution significantly and helps not to disturb the neighbours.
Preparation is key. The correct chemical to apply will be an Alkaline solution. The ph level can vary from 8 to 13. We use a more neutral chemical when working with wool fibres.
Once the relevant chemical has been applied, either will then agitate this with a machine or a brush.
Once the chemicals have dwelled by the manufactures instructions, we can begin.
To ensure no residue of the applied chemical remains, an acid applies to the water tank which neutralises the fibres and also softens them.
Experts the world over use the hwe as their preferred method, as this removes the grit, dust and small particles, and biological contaminants.
The extraction is the most important stage of the h20 process. Steam will use a lot more water than other systems, such as bonnet cleaning. We need a powerful high airflow to extract all the moisture. Other tools of the trade to dry fabrics are fans or air movers. I placed these in the room and blow cold air across the fibres to remove what little moisture still exists. We also advise opening windows in the warmer months and putting the central heating on in the colder months.
Carpets that have a jute backing, and rugs with natural yarns are prone to shrinkage using this method of cleaning, and it is advisable to approach the dry method.
The modern-day carpets that have a synthetic backing or have man-made fibres that will not shrink. To understand what your fibre is, we use.
2/ The burn test
3/ The float test
If you see a wrinkle after cleaning, delamination may have taken place. This normally only applies when the homeowner tries to clean themselves, does not understand the structure or has a poorly fitted product. This will correct itself.
When anything is cleaned with moisture, it will require drying time. Just as when you take your clothes out of a washing machine. The faster the drying, the less chance of re-soiling. So please take the advice of the professional.
Results depend on many factors.
Is it not as it reads, though? There is a small amount of moisture from the pre-spray.
thoroughly which will release any sand, allergens, and grits. It will surprise you at the amount that is recovered during our hoovering process.
We then apply the chemical. Using our crb or scrubber, this will gentle agitate into the fibre. The 2nd phase of the clean is the actual dry compound. These are sand-like size sponges and they will react with the chemical pre-spray. We again use our CRB to grind these sponges deep into the fibres. We then left this to dwell, from between 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the severity of the cleaning required.
There may be areas which will require a hands-on your knees approach for those stubborn marks. Removal of certain stains may require a variety of chemicals used very sparingly. So as not to dampen the carpet. Sometimes a quick blast of a hair dryer helps.
We normally use this method in sizeable areas on low-profile carpet tiles.
The process involves using a rotary machine where a pad can be attached.
A pad is submerged in a bucket of a solution, squeezed out, then reattached to the machine, and then areas of a couple of feet square cleaned. The mop is then cleaned and reused.
This system is excellent for service cleaning, and it leaves fibres touch dry if done correctly.
This can be quite a quick method.